The Baths, BVI

The Baths are Sand Harbor on steroids and warm salty water. These gigantic boulders were formed by lava leaking out of cracks in the earth and slowly cooling. Smoothed by thousands of years of water they appear like a giant has strewn pebbles along a section of the beach. The rather uncomfortable night rolling in the ferry wakes near the entrance to Spanish Town has paid off as we arrive at the Baths before 8am. Already boats are speeding in from every direction to pick up moorings. The Baths are the most visited site in the BVI, and anchoring is prohibited so moorings are highly coveted. By the time we are prepped for our day at the beach, the field has filled. Our timing is impeccable, and we hit land before the party boats and crowds arrive. But once there, we suffer a near-instant setback when Zoe steps on a sea urchin while frolicking on the rocks. She rallies after we extract a few spines with assurances that she will live to see another day. The boulders form caves that are excellent for climbing and exploring-- some create clear pools of water to wade or drift in. Closer to the surf, some form natural whirlpools and still others narrow cracks to crawl through. This is not a place for the claustrophobic. We wander unfettered by crowds for nearly an hour, then they began to arrive enmass, causing large queues at the wooden ladders used to clamber down the rock faces. We couldn’t take enough pictures of this unique place. Each vista seems more beautiful than its predecessor. Finally, we pick our way over across to Devil’s Bay and spend the rest of the morning playing in the turquoise waters. The children find a 12 ft tall boulder and with Tom’s help take turns climbing up and leaping into the surf below. All in all it’s a fabulous day.