Goodbye St. John

The kids are taking a glass stamping class at Maho Bay Eco-lodge, thereby committing us to a few more days in St. John.  We use them to explore some new anchorages before connecting a final time with Bob and Annie for dinner at Skinny’s.  After seeing the Barth’s off at the ferry dock, we anchor at Canelle Bay, the former Rockerfeller estate turned National Park, on par with the Awahnee in Yosemite. It’s a lovely spot with wide empty beaches. From our deck we see deer, iguanas and mongoose on shore. The next morning, while Zoe and I swim, we spot an eagle ray. Unfortunately, next to Cruz Bay it’s St. John’s most popular destination and by 10am the swells from the ferry traffic are unbearable. So its on to the next destination: Lameshur Bay. Lameshur is noted for its snorkeling, and we see our first hawksbill turtle and Spanish Hogfish. At this point we’ve nearly memorized the Caribbean fish guide, so it’s a treat to spot a rare sea creature.

Thursday arrives and it’s time for the glass stamping class. The children are making sun-catchers.  Zoe and JT each choose the frit to color their sun-catchers and their stamp. The glassblower gathers the molten glass and places the glowing orange mass on a metal table. Each child warms the liquid with a blow torch before stamping it, JT with an eagle ray, Zoe a sailboat. The glassblower adds the final touch by adding a hole. It’s a great diversion and a bargain.  Zoe is disappointed that she isn’t old enough (13 is the minimum) to take one of the more advanced classes, especially knowing that the lodge will be closing at the end of the season.

Back at Casa de Klenke, Zoe and JT meet some Annie’s nephew, KC, and his family. Zoe takes a shine to their little girl Leila who is a year and half. I haven’t seen this maternal side of Zoe before and it’s endearing.  She carries her everywhere and accompanies them to Annaberg to give yet another tour. During this trip Zoe is quite literally growing up before our eyes, both physically and emotionally.

As with many farewells, our leaving the Virgin Islands feels bittersweet. Arriving on Valentine’s Day, our time here and in the BVI has passed quickly.  We’ve made the most of it, visiting nearly all of the places on our itinerary, drawn by the beauty and diversity of the islands. More importantly, spending extended time with Bob and Annie has been a real gift for all of us, but especially for Zoe and JT.  Yet, the opportunity to explore new islands and the need to deliver Liberator to Ft. Lauderdale by mid-May are practicalities that propel us ever northward.