Back in the U.S.

Dutch bureaucracy forces us to make the 90-mile sail from St. Martin to St. John an overnighter. After homeschooling on Monday, the girls from Daydreamer invited our kids to the beach to play with another cruising family with 2 girls (9 &11). A third family joined us, also with 2 girls (4 and 11), bringing the total to 7 girls and JT. Cruising kids form fast friendships, and they immediately take to one another, easily sharing the 1 boogie board, building a monster sand pit/castle, and body surfing. Meanwhile, the parents hang out swapping sailing stories and notes on places we’ve been. Finally, Tom realized that he hadn’t checked out and it’s already 4 pm. By 4:30, he’s in the office. The immigration folks clear him out, but the woman from customs has gone for the day and we need to pay our 7 euro before we can leave. Of course, the guy can’t accept it for her, which means we’ve missed our window for a 5 am departure. (early yes, but we don’t want to arrive in st john in the dark and pick up a mooring in a strange harbor. The kids are disappointed as they are eager to see their grandparents, but they are learning to go with the flow, and so they adjust.

Fortunately, disappointments are often soothed by silver linings. We learn about a good bakery on the Dutch side, and when Tom completes the checkout, he procures a final round of decadent croissants. Then, the kids are able to bid a proper farewell to their Daydreamer compatriots. Zoe is interested in learning about Emma’s jewelry-making business and Emma generously gives her sea glass-earrings and matching necklace. Finally, a 4pm departure ensures that Zoe and JT will sleep through most of their potential seasickness as the sea is forecast to have a decent swell in the wake of the cold front. As anticipated, they turn a little green around the gills as soon as we hit open water. After suffering for a couple hours, we dose them both with Dramamine and they drop off.

Tom takes first watch and is treated to a huge squall. During my watch, I whittle the hours listening to an audio-book and enjoying the brilliant stars.  Aside from the lone sailboat, it’s just us and several cruise ships making the run to St. Thomas. Surprisingly, their lights track us for hours. They must drive slowly. Later, locals confirm that sometimes cruise ships make circles to delay their arrival until morning. St. John welcomes us on Valentine’s Day with bright cheery blue skies. We call ahead so when we arrive, Tom’s dad and his wife, Bob and Annie, are already on the beach. It takes us a few minutes to pull ourselves together for the trip to shore, but we are thrilled to see the grandparents and be on land.

After the long, swell-filled night, we are a bit wobbly. A week on land with a bed, showers, laundry and delicious home cooking has completely spoiled us. Bob and Annie are gracious hosts and generously lend us a car to run errands.  After 2 weeks of simple meals eeked out on a 3 burner stove (Are we having chicken? chicken? or chicken tonight?!), the kids are thrilled by Grandpa’s treats. In addition to their standard favorites which include bacon and root beer floats, on the island, the kids experience the full range of offerings including Grandpa’s home-made French bread and fresh blueberry muffins, and Annies’ strombolis and key lime bars made with fruit from their tree.  

For Christmas we gave the kids a sailing dingy. Tom shipped it to Bob and Annie, who’ve stored ing it at their house. It’s a little bit of a process to move it down to the bay, but Tom finally gets it into the water. He’s been teaching the kids to sail. At first JT is leery of capsizing, but quickly learns that capsizing in the Caribbean is fun, especially on a hot day. They both quickly grow to love sailing it. While spending a little more time in the islands south of St. Martin would have been nice, we have been so thoroughly spoiled in St. John that we are haven’t looked back.