After less than a week, Liberator already feels like home.
We arrived Saturday, February 2, on the Dutch side of Sint Maarten, where we
met Steve Doody, the owner of Liberator. He gave us the 30k foot overview then
kindly offered to keep an eye on the boat while we provisioned at the nearby
grocery store. The sticker shock was immediate and painful whether the prices
were quoted in Guilder, Dollars, or Euro. A Costco- sized container of mixed
greens runs $20. Say goodbye to fresh fruits and vegetables!
An hour and a chunk of cash later, we rolled our clattering
grocery cart back to the marina and began tucking things away. The kids were
great, but impatient to start their adventure. Hearing us say, “Not now, mom
and dad are unpacking!” when they were dying to test drive the dingy, got old,
pretty quick. After an uneventful first
night, we timed our departure to coincide with one of the thrice daily bridge
openings. Enough stuff was settled to drive out at 11am, but as piles still lay
strewn about, we anchored just outside the bride in Simpson Bay until
everything was in its place.
In anticipation of rain in the forecast, the following day we
set sail for Marigot, the capital of the French side. Sint Maarten/St. Martin
has the distinction of being the smallest island controlled by 2 sovereign
nations. Christopher Columbus, on follow-up journey to America “discovered” a
number of islands in the Caribbean, including St. Martin (named after the
patron saint on the day it was discovered) and St. Barts (named after his
brother Bartholomew). At one point, the Spanish laid claim to St. Martin,
defeating the Dutch, but later lost it to its European neighbors. The island
changed hands 16 times over a 100 year period. Ironically, St. Barts was deemed
worthless and Spain ignored it.
As we had entered a new country, we are required to check in
again. We’d been advised that there was
a fantastic patisserie, thus we all headed to town for breakfast. The port
authority pointed out 2 shops and we found one. We enjoyed some croissants and
coffee with the intention of a final round of shopping before heading to the
ritzy (read insanely expensive) St. Bart’s. Enroute we stumbled upon THE
patisserie, Serafina, with unbelievably delicious baked goods offered at very reasonable
prices. They were simply too tempting to pass up, so we indulged in a second
round of breakfast. Oddly, merchants set
prices in euro, but some accept dollars at the same price. Given the exchange
rate, that’s a bargain for us. Since it would be several weeks before we could
do a proper provisioning we set off to fill the fridge. This time we found a warehouse-style
market that we wished we known about before
shopping on the Dutch side, as the prices were excellent and we happily filled
all our available spaces.
The Caribbean is full of people living their dreams. And
many of them, like us, drag their families along. So far we’ve met 2 cruising
families. The first family was from Alaska and just embarking on their 3rd
season with 3 girls: 9, 11, and 13. While
in Simpson Bay, they saw Zoe and JT, so stopped by to introduce themselves.
Later, they came back and all the kids swam, while their dad Peter shared
information with us. On the French side,
we met a family who’d crossed the Atlantic in a catamaran. The hailed from L’Orient,
near Brest, and were partway into a 10-month trip. The parents spoke English,
but the kids, twin boys aged 9 and their daughter, 11 did not. Nonetheless, our
children found common ground in jumping on the trampoline and making beaded
bracelets, while we heard about their adventurous crossing. Unfortunately,
neither of them is following our itinerary, but it was fun for Zoe and JT to
play with other children nonetheless. Unlike the first weeks in Spain, the
transition has been super smooth. We’ve not heard a single complaint about
missing Tahoe, or a wish to go back home. Liberator has quickly taken that
place in their minds.
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